Thanks For The Memories

I’m heading home. It’s such an exciting, frighteningly weird thought. 8 months, 3 continents, and something like 23 countries later, I can safely say that I am returning from the best experience of my life, and I am definitely not the same person I was when I left.

It hasn’t been all roses though, I have seen some horrible things: rampaging dogs starving to death in Morocco, homeless people sleeping in Paris’s subway stations, injured beggars in Eastern Europe, impoverished farmers working away in terrible conditions in Ukraine, with virtually no hope of improving their station… Most recently, Julia and I witnessed a man yelling out in pain and bleeding to death after having been hit by a truck in Delhi. There are definitely some incredibly horrible things that people are going through in the world, which we in Australia are so (luckily? maybe not) unaware of.

That being said, I have realised something even more important. Even though the world is full of horror, it is by far filled with more: amazing places, a rich history, and most importantly, beautiful people. I have seen some amazing sights on my travels – the Taj Mahal, the Colosseum, the Eiffel Tower… But none of that compares to the incredible human beings that I have met.

On my Contiki tour, in hostels, at the University of Dundee, and even just on the street, I was lucky enough to get to know some of the most wonderfully fun-loving and caring people, who are just as crazy about travel as I am.

In India, my friend from home Julia’s family let me stay with them for free, her mum cooked me delicious authentic meals, they organised tours for me, and treated me like a daughter.

When travelling in England, a train conductor went out of his way to write me new train tickets and make phone calls when I left my bag (with wallet and phone) on a train platform. Another worker at the station generously handed it in for me, and not a single bit of money was missing.

At Dundee, I found a home away from home, with the international students there becoming my surrogate family. They were always keen to travel, to celebrate with parties, and most importantly, were always there to cuddle, talk, and provide chocolate when something shitty was going on.

When travelling with my dad, who I hadn’t always been on the best of terms with, I got to know him a lot better. Amazingly, he encouraged me to travel as much as I could, saying that this was the time of my life, and that I should make the most of it before I am tied down to a proper job. Definitely not something I expect every parent would say, and I am grateful for it. More importantly, Dad made me want more out of my life. As much as I pretended it weirded me out, the way he spoke about my mum when we were away – about how he loved her and missed her – really makes me realise what I want out of life, and how lucky I am to have two parents in such a loving relationship.

While this world if full of terrible things, there is still so much good. Somehow, even the people with nothing seem to find a way to be happy and kind. The impoverished giving their only money to others, people volunteering their time and money to help the sick… This world is, above everything else, so full of caring and loving human beings.

I guess what I’m saying is, corny as it sounds, this trip has definitely taught me a lot about life, about myself, and more importantly, about the person I would like to be. It’s not just overseas, but in Australia, that I have so many incredible people in my life. Special thanks go out to my amazing housemates and wonderful friends, who make me so excited to go home.

I am so incredibly grateful how lucky I am to have been born Australian. Despite our scorching Summers and atrocious government, it could be so much worse. After seeing Ukraine, I couldn’t help but imagine what my life would have been like if my grandparents hadn’t made the crazy, scary decision to move after the horrors they experienced in the War. I may not have much by Australian standards, but I have a roof over my head, and an incredible group of friends and family. From now on, I am determined to live every day to reflect that fact.

So, if you are reading this, consider this a pledge: I am determined to come back a happier, livelier, and more appreciative person. Thank you so much to all the wonderful people that have made this experience the best of my life, and helped to change me for the better. To all my wonderful friends back home in Australia, I will be seeing you very soon!

 

Yesterday is history, tomorrow’s a mystery, but today is a gift. That’s why they call it the present!

The Ukraine Crisis as Perceived by a Tourist

 

The media bombards us daily with images of violence, unhappiness, and guns, and the current crisis in Ukraine is no exception. When I told people I would be visiting there, friends and family warned me that I shouldn’t go, and that I was endangering my safety. Only visiting Lviv (essentially located as close to the Polish border as it is possible to be) and other rural towns in the far-West of the country, I was not concerned about any sort of violence interrupting our travels. Indeed, in my two weeks here I have not once seen any separatists or feared for my life, however, the signs of tension in this country are everywhere.

Virtually every car in Lviv (incidentally, most of them are old Soviet Ladas) proudly dons two flags: the Ukrainian flag, and that of the European Union. This goes for outside many hotel buildings and cafés too. It is clear that on this side of the country, everyone loves the EU. In souvenir shops, you can buy the Ukrainian flag imprinted on the EU one, or Ukrainian car licence plates with the EU stars on them.

Lviv’s simple souvenirs are not limited to pro-EU knickknacks, however. Anti-Putin merchandise is everywhere you look. Posters likening the Russian President to Hitler, handmade chocolates of Putin with devil ears, magnets, bags… The list is endless.

In every, bar the news was on, with the crisis making every headline. I find it interesting that Ukraine’s crisis has received so much international media attention, even in countries like Australia and the United Kingdom. With places like Syria going through somewhat similar crises, it is interesting that Ukraine is always at the forefront of the news. Admittedly, I do have a particular interest in the subject, so perhaps my assessment is not the most accurate. There is no denying, however, that most people now have some idea of where Ukraine is, or have t least heard of it.

For Ukrainians themselves, the perceptions are very different. I have met many of them (admittedly mostly from the West of the country) who are not at all content with the media coverage of the situation, deeming it inaccurate and open to false suggestion. Indeed, the general belief seems to be that the number of people being killed in this conflict, for example in recent events in Donetsk, is in fact much higher than what is being portrayed in international and even domestic news coverage.

In Eastern Ukraine in particular, the media is dominated by what many are calling Russian propaganda; portraying Russia as the hero helping out its neighbour, and giving misinformation about tolls of the death and injured on both sides. In the West, on the other hand, people take a completely different stance, arguing that the Ukrainian rebels that were filmed shooting Russians in Kiev Square were, in fact, Russian separatists in disguise (The Guardian).

Silent forms of protest are seen everywhere, but this is simply not sufficient, and the current crisis has not yet been resolved. Russian President Vladimir Putin blames this on a core rift in opinion: “[…] efforts to force Ukraine into an artificial choice between Russia and the EU has pushed Ukraine towards a split, a painful internal conflict” (BBC News). It is indeed true that this conflict has been caused, essentially, by one half of the country wanting to be more integrated with Europe, and the other half feeling more connected with Russia.

I think, based on my previous post, you will not be surprised when I say that I am extremely in favour of further European Union integration, and that the Ukraine would benefit greatly from it. But then why do some Ukrainians disagree? There is much more to it than the fact that Ukraine was once part of the Soviet Union. Considering the fact that the EU now counts ex-Soviet countries among its member states, and that these have thrived since their membership (I have seen it in Poland first hand), this explanation does not suffice.

The fact is, the Eastern part of Ukraine is extremely anti-European, whether it be because of its higher number Russian ethnic groups (which some Ukrainians argue were strategically placed in the country by the USSR after the fall of the Berlin War), or simply due to higher geographical proximity.

It is difficult to determine how best to approach the situation. The Ukraine’s military is an extremely far cry from being able to match that of Russia. While it seems unlikely that Russia will be annexing more of the country anytime soon – considering the international outcry – something must be done to attempt to reconcile the extreme tension within the state. Ukraine must fight back using more soft power in the East, by acting against the extreme Russian media presence to promote more pro-European viewpoints.

I am not saying that I am in favour of propaganda, merely that education and more balanced media coverage could help this country, which is definitely in need of a change. I think Russia is a great and successful country, but it is holding Ukraine back. Being a large country with so many successful neighbours and so much fertile land, in a favourable geographic position, Ukraine should not be plagued by corrupt politics, sub-par roads and Soviet-style poverty. Waving an EU flag or making comedic anti-Putin signs, while amusing, is not enough. Something has got to change, and I think embracing the EU is the answer.

Bibliography

BBC News, “EU signs pact with Ukraine, Georgia and Moldova” <http://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-28052645&gt; (27 June 2014).

Shaun Walker, The Guardian, “Ukrainian officials hint at Russian involvement in deaths of protestors”, <http://www.theguardian.com/world/2014/apr/03/ukraine-detains-12-police-shooting-protesters-yanukovych-riot-kiev&gt; (3 April 2014).

Ukraine: A Modern Third World?

A week ago, I boarded an overnight sleeper train from Krakow to Lviv. My aunt and uncle, who were travelling with me and had been to Ukraine before, warned me that I would get a shock when we arrived. Having already been to Thailand, Morocco, and Turkey, I was not concerned in the slightest. Despite this, upon arrival, I was surprised.

The first word that comes to mind when describing Lviv is dilapidated. A city that was once a capital the Kingdom of Galicia, later a significant stronghold of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and, more recently, one of the most Western points of the Soviet Union, Lviv’s architecture and general way of life reflects this. The buildings are a combination of ornate and regal, and plain brown brick. That being said, everything is falling apart: paint peeling off walls, roofs caved in, and holes in the footpath are a common sight.

Main street of Lviv 

This is not to say, however, Ukraine is just like every other so-called “Third World” country I have ever visited. Yes, the prices are low ($2 for dinner, I’m not complaining), and the people are poor, but there is a definite sense of European-ness about the place. There are beautiful statues in the city square surrounded by park benches and ice-cream vendors. The locals wear bright clothes, and while not necessarily on par with the fashionistas of Milan, they look good. Lviv has a beautiful opera house, where Dad and I had the pleasure of watching a fantastic show in amazing seats (for $20!). Perhaps not the sense of French chic that one associates with the European lifestyle, but Lviv certainly evokes a feeling of European culture.

Inside Lviv’s Opera House

In the countryside, on the other hand, it’s a very different story. We travelled there to meet some relatives some 150 km South-East of Lviv a day after arriving. Due to the difficulty of public transport, we hired a minibus with a driver, and it took us around three hours to make the journey. Let me just say this: I cannot imagine anywhere in the world having worse roads than Ukraine. While dirt roads are bad, tar roads that have been neglected are deplorable. They are holey, worn-out, and extremely dangerous.

A typical road going through Ukraine’s country villages.

When we first came to the bumpier roads, I got worried and thought people were drunk driving, but soon came to learn that it’s perfectly normal for cars to swerve to the opposite side of the road, or even off it, to avoid potholes. At one town we were even held up because truck drivers were holding a protest about it. A 150 km trip taking three hours because of poor quality roads sums up well what the quality of life is in the Ukrainian countryside.

Our relatives were beautiful and accommodating. They lived in a small piece of land on the outskirts of a tiny town, and the father was a priest, making them better off than many others around the place. That being said, things were not great. The thing that really got me was the toilet. It was outside, and was basically a hole in a piece of wood, above a very short drop to the ground. None of the houses had sewage systems, and the stench was terrible. Not to mention the fact that the chickens were fossicking around in there.

The family, however, thought nothing of it. This was normal. For me, who had found better facilities even in Morocco, I was appalled. It was just so strange and unexpected, especially considering the house had modern kitchen facilities and the best Wi-Fi connection I’d used all holidays. Wi-Fi, but no toilet. I think that sums up pretty well the weird time warp that Ukraine is currently stuck in.

Lviv is full of pizza restaurants, internet cafes, museums and parks, yet everyone drives old communist Ladas, and there is no such thing as a supermarket, only weird corner stores, where you have to ask the lady behind the counter to get you what you want. It can probably be best described as a run-down Prague, without the river or all the tourists.

All the public buses in Ukraine look like something out of 1980s Soviet Russia

Ukraine’s current state of living is definitely not what I expected, and one of the weirdest I have ever experienced. While a clear European city with many modern facilities, it feels as though it is stuck in the 1960s, and has much room for improvement. I was unable to travel further West to Kiev due to the current state of affairs, although I believe things there are probably even more extreme. The people here are amazing and friendly, and this is a country that could and should benefit from some Western and European support and investment.

P.S. Consider this a post of the ‘descriptive’ nature, the political one is definitely on its way!

 

 

Roots

Disclaimer: This is post is about to get a bit corny. I apologise in advance, but don’t say I didn’t warn you.

My dad’s parents – my grandparents – moved to Australia post-WW2 from Ukraine after a relatively traumatic experience. My dad was born here, and despite calling my grandparents Baba and Dido, them speaking to me in thick accents and always cooking delicious Pierogi, that had always been about the extent of my experience with my Ukrainian heritage.

In 2003, my family and I, along with my grandfather, went back to visit the family, which now lived in Poland, after various border changes and a forced relocation of all Ukranians living in Poland during the Cold War. I was 9 years old when we visited, and although I hold fond, vague memories of the visit, I don’t remember much.

This time, it would be different. Very anxious to get to know where I come from a bit better, I was very keen to go with my aunt and uncle when I heard they would be visiting again. Encouraging my dad to do the same, we went through the arduous visa process (for the Ukraine) and planning, and last Sunday, ended up back at my dad’s cousin’s place.

Besides extreme frustration that I spoke the least Ukrainian out of everyone there, the reunion was lovely, and we were welcomed with open arms. We sat around the table and toasted with shots of vodka, ate lots of food (me trying to sneakily avoid the meat), and drank some more vodka.

Around 8:30, I was very tired and ready for bed, when there was a knock at the door. It was Ola, my cousin, whom I had been great friends with the last time I had come to visit over 11 years ago. She spoke decent English, and invited me to a party down the road that she and my other cousin – Piotr – were going to. I didn’t speak the language, was very tired, and in particular, I was quite shy. So needless to say, I wasn’t very keen. But, one thing I had learned at Dundee was that sometimes you have to just embrace new situations. Hadn’t I come here because I wanted to get in touch with my heritage and get to know my family? It seemed like a good way of doing it.

 

My cousin Ola and myself – reunited after 11 years

The party was just down the road, with a bonfire outside a dilapidated house that I once belonged to my great-grandparents. There were lots of other young people there, whom I soon learned to be “Lemko”, that is, Polish people of Ukrainian origin. It turned out that many of them spoke decent English, at least, much better than I could speak Polish or Ukrainian. Ola introduced me as her “cousin from Australia”, which gave me great pride. I quickly realised that people are the same everywhere, and it was really easy to talk to people.

That being said, it was easy to see the cultural differences between parties here and parties in Australia. Here, everyone offered me drinks and no one was adverse to sharing. The drink of choice seemed to be straight shots of vodka, never mixed, or canned beer. The tables were covered in sausages, bread, and home made cakes. I guess everyone came with food to share; it was nice.

Ola was very keen on me trying “Kropkra”, a Lemko spirit drink, otherwise known as Ether. My family had warned me of this, and indeed when the bottle was opened, it was the strongest smelling alcohol I had ever experienced in my life. I’m not even sure what it was made of, but it smelled intense. When everyone else learned that this was my first time drinking it, they laughed and urged me on, saying that I would spend the night vomiting.

A little nervous, I shotted it the same way everyone else did- with some water. It actually wasn’t as bad as expected. The worst part is how much it makes you burp, and when it comes back up, it burns like crazy. A sort of initiation rite, Ola told me that now I was a real Lemko.

The night continued gloriously, I met lots of people and did many more shots. I met someone who turned out to be my cousin- it was crazy! When someone else learned that we were related and asked my name. I said I was a Gojdycz, and everyone at the table exclaimed and smiled in a “That explains it” sort of way. It made me feel so great and accepted as one of them. In Australia, my name only has a hazy, foreign sort of significance.

Later, the dancing began, and we danced to traditional music, boys and girls partnered up. I got taught some steps, switched partners, and had an absolute ball (pardon the pun). It was so nice to do hands-on-shoulders moves, instead of just your typical Aussie duff-duff. It was fun.

Ultimately, it was a fantastic night. It was so nice to feel so accepted, and have so much fun, all based purely on who my family is, and where they came from. Once again, I have learned that when I get out of my comfort zone a bit, I can have a fantastic experience. Even though I didn’t speak the language, it was my first night in Poland, and the only person I knew was a second cousin I hadn’t seen in 11 years, it was, quite simply, amazing. I guess there are some connections, like family and heritage, which transcend all those barriers. I am so grateful for Ola’s kindness in bringing me out. Now I have learned that coming back for a visit is not enough.

So trust me, this will not be the last time you hear of my Ukrainian/Polish/Lemko heritage experience. Now that I know how worthwhile it is, I will continue to pursue it, hopefully next time I will stay for much longer, and learn the language!

So this is me signing off from Ukraine for the next part of my journey, a very proud Lemko, who now happily knows a little bit more about herself.